看懂一件明代曳撒袍Reading one Ming-dynasty yesa robe
观察衣襟怎样交叠，再拆开视图看腰下的褶。我们只讨论中国丝绸博物馆所藏的一件明代曳撒袍，不把它当成所有古代服饰的标准。
See how the front panels overlap, then pull the view apart to inspect the pleats below the waist. We discuss only one Ming-dynasty yesa robe held by the China National Silk Museum, not a standard for all historical dress.
01先预测Predict
02动手观察Inspect
先勾选「掀开外襟」，比较前后；再用分解滑杆观察上身与腰下部分。右、左都以穿衣者为准。
First tick “Lift the outer front panel” and compare. Then use the exploded-view slider to look at the upper body and the part below the waist. Right and left always mean the wearer's.
方向键每次移动 25%。这只是检查视图，不模拟布料受力或真实拆衣。剖面夸大厚度，便于看清折返。Arrow keys move 25% at a time. This is only an inspection view; it does not simulate fabric forces or taking the robe apart. The section exaggerates thickness so the fold-back is visible.
03解释观察Explain
衣襟的内外与袍身的上下Inner and outer panels, upper and lower body
右衽指左前襟向穿衣者右侧掩合，覆盖右前襟。正面观看时，穿衣者的右侧在你的左边。「右」不是观看者的右。
图中外襟移开后，内襟才显露。浅色只帮助辨认被遮挡部分，不代表另一件内衣。分解图把同一件袍的上身、腰下袍身拉开，不能据此说它们是两件独立衣服。
Closing to the right (youren) means the left front panel wraps toward the wearer's right side and covers the right front panel. Seen from the front, the wearer's right is on your left. “Right” is not the viewer's right.
In the figure, the inner panel shows only after the outer panel moves aside. The light color just helps you pick out the hidden part; it is not a separate undergarment. The exploded view pulls apart the upper body and the lower body of the same robe; it does not mean they are two separate garments.
「掀开外襟后，我看见了___。图上的左右以___为准。分解图的空隙表示___，不表示___。」“After lifting the outer panel I saw ___. Left and right in the figure follow ___. The gap in the exploded view means ___, not ___.”
迁移问题Transfer question
证据与示意边界Evidence and schematic limits
馆藏原件名为「明代曲水如意云纹暗花缎曳撒袍」。中国丝绸博物馆将它定为明代，记载为褐色丝质，长 108 厘米、宽 49 厘米、通袖长 214 厘米。馆方说明它采用交领右衽、平直双袖，腰下有褶，呈裙状。
查看中国丝绸博物馆原件记录。上述形制、材质和尺寸来自该记录。本图没有复制馆藏照片、暗花纹样或实物裁片。布面的褐色、明暗和细线仅提示缎面材质与折叠方向，不声称复原了原件的组织结构。
轮廓、褶数、内襟覆盖范围、布边处理与分解距离都是教学重建。放大剖面用连续折线说明布面折返，没有据此断定原件的逐褶折法；剖面厚度也经过夸大。馆方简短记录没有提供逐片裁剪、缝线、扣带或内衣证据，因此这里不声称复原了这些细节，也不扩展成一套完整穿搭。褶裥是布料折叠的表示，不是额外加了一条裙。
术语另见武汉纺织大学服装学院陶辉对交领右衽的解释。它用于说明术语，不用于替这件馆藏补造细节。不同年代、地区与场合的衣装需要分别查证。
The museum object is titled 明代曲水如意云纹暗花缎曳撒袍 (a Ming-dynasty yesa robe of figured satin with meander and ruyi-cloud patterns). The China National Silk Museum dates it to the Ming dynasty and records it as brown silk, 108 cm long, 49 cm wide, with a sleeve span of 214 cm. The museum describes a crossed collar closing to the right (jiaoling youren), straight sleeves, and pleats below the waist that form a skirt-like lower part.
View the China National Silk Museum record (in Chinese). The form, material and dimensions above come from that record. This figure does not copy the museum photograph, the figured pattern, or actual pattern pieces. The brown color, shading and fine lines only suggest the satin material and folding direction; they do not claim to reconstruct the original weave.
The outline, pleat count, inner-panel coverage, edge finishing and exploded distance are teaching reconstructions. The enlarged section uses a continuous zigzag to explain how cloth folds back; it does not assert how the original was pleated fold by fold, and its thickness is exaggerated. The museum's short record gives no evidence for individual pattern pieces, stitching, ties or undergarments, so none of these are claimed here, and the figure is not extended into a full outfit. The pleats represent folded cloth, not an extra skirt.
For the terms, see Tao Hui's explanation of jiaoling youren (Wuhan Textile University, in Chinese). It explains terminology; it is not used to invent details for this object. Dress from other periods, regions and occasions needs its own sources.
可离线打开。Tab 移到控件，空格勾选，方向键调滑杆。界面不自动播放动画；减少动态效果时仍可逐步检查。重置会清空本页作答。Works offline. Tab moves between controls, Space toggles a checkbox, arrow keys move the slider. Nothing autoplays; with reduced motion you can still inspect step by step. Reset clears your answers on this page.
布面明暗、下垂弧线与放大厚度用于解释褶层。褶数、光泽和布边处理是教学重建，未复制实物织纹，也未按馆藏尺寸比例绘制。Shading, drape curves and enlarged thickness explain the pleat layers. Pleat count, sheen and edge finishing are a teaching reconstruction; they do not copy the object's weave or follow its measured proportions.